Guides · Fork adjustment

Adjusting your fork for the trail you're on.

Your shock has separate high- and low-speed compression adjusters. Your fork has compression and rebound clickers, but no high-speed compression adjuster. Here's what the fork's clickers can and can't change, how riders get one bike to work on different terrain, and what's coming to make it easier.

What your fork's clickers actually change

Compression damping works at two kinds of speed. Low speed is the slow movement of the fork: braking, diving into a corner, crawling over rocks. High speed is the fork moving fast on a sharp hit: a square-edged rock, a root, the face of a whoop, a hard landing.

Most shocks let you adjust each one separately, so you can trade whoops hold-up against comfort over roots without changing both. Dirt bike forks have compression and rebound clickers, but no high-speed compression adjuster: the compression clicker works on low speed. How the fork handles sharp, fast hits is set by its internal valving, and changing that means a revalve.

That's why a clicker can't fix valving that's wrong for you. Get the setup right first: springs for your weight, sag, and valving that suits your riding. Then use the clickers to fine-tune.

When one setting isn't enough

Riders run into the limits of a single fork setting in a few common ways:

  • One bike, different terrain.A setup that's right for fast desert or sand feels harsh in tight, slow woods and rocks, and vice versa. Many riders set the bike up for the faster terrain and back the clickers off for slow trail.
  • The end of a long race. Racers back the clickers off between sections or late in a race to save their hands and arms. Some have the clicker turned all the way soft before the finish, with nothing left to adjust.
  • Close, but not quite right. After a revalve the fork is better but still not right in one condition, and the next step is another trip to the tuner.

What riders do about it today

OptionWhat it changesThe catch
ClickersLow-speed compression and rebound, quickly, at the trailheadNo high-speed compression adjustment, so little effect on sharp, fast hits; you can run out of range
RevalveThe fork's base character, for your weight and terrainOne setting for all your riding; changing it means opening the fork again
A second setupA different valving or a second fork for different terrainCostly, and a swap, not an adjustment
Aftermarket adjustable kitsExternally adjustable dampingAbout $1,000 or more, and not on every fork

Rider reviews of all of these are mixed. A revalve or kit that one rider swears by, another finds no better, often because their weight, pace or terrain is different.

Coming soon: the Tintic Reds ABV

Your shock has high- and low-speed compression adjustment. Now your fork does too. The Tintic Reds ABV adds the high-speed compression adjustment forks have never had, alongside low-speed, adjusted by hand at the top of the fork, no tools.

  • Fast desert or whoops? Firm it up.
  • Slow technical trail, or tired late in a race? Soften it.
  • Setup close but not quite right? Close the last bit yourself, without another revalve.

It launches first on 2024 and newer WP closed-cartridge forks, and it works with the Tintic cone valve or on its own. Join the waitlist to hear first.

For tuners

You set the base valving for the rider's weight and riding. The ABV lets the rider fine-tune the rest on the trail, so “close but not quite right” doesn't have to mean another revalve.

Questions

Why does my shock have high- and low-speed compression adjusters but my fork doesn't?

Stock dirt bike forks have compression and rebound clickers, but the compression clicker only adjusts low-speed damping. High-speed behavior is set by the valving inside, so changing it has meant a revalve. The Tintic Reds ABV, coming soon, adds high-speed compression adjustment to the fork, alongside low-speed, by hand at the top of the fork.

Can I adjust my fork during a race?

On a stock fork, yes, within the range of your clickers, and the compression clicker only changes low speed. Many racers back the compression off a click or two between sections or late in a race. Make one change at a time so you can tell what it did. With the Tintic Reds ABV (coming soon), you can change both high- and low-speed compression by hand at the top of the fork, between sections or at a stop.

My fork beats me up by the end of a long race. What can I change?

On any fork, first make sure the springs and valving suit your weight and pace; a fork that's too stiff for you will wear you out whatever the clickers say. On a stock fork, softening compression a little for the last laps is common, and if you're out of clicks, the valving is the next thing to look at. With the Tintic Reds ABV (coming soon), you can soften both high- and low-speed compression by hand for the last laps.

How do I set up one bike for desert and tight technical trail?

Fast desert and whoops want more support; slow, rocky trail wants the fork softer. On a stock fork, get the base valving right for the riding you do most, then use the clickers for the rest. Clickers cover part of that range; a second valving setup or an adjustable kit covers more. With the Tintic Reds ABV (coming soon), your tuner sets the base valving once and you change high- and low-speed compression by hand for the terrain you're riding that day.

Will clickers or adjusters fix the wrong valving?

No, on a stock fork or with the Tintic Reds ABV. Both fine-tune a fork that's set up for you; neither can make up for springs or valving that are wrong for your weight and riding. Start with the setup, then adjust.

When is the Tintic Reds ABV available, and will it fit my bike?

It's coming soon, launching first on 2024 and newer WP closed-cartridge forks, with more platforms under evaluation. Join the waitlist to hear first.